On April 5, 2023, the world’s most famous wine writer, Jancis Robinson, made a rare in-person appearance in St. Helena, Calif., at Napa Green’s Napa Rise sustainability event, highlighting her pet peeves in packaging, green solutions and insights into global wine trends.
Pending anti-greenwashing measures in the EU, reducing carbon emissions in wine packaging and growing more hybrid varieties that reduce the need for fungicides all got her thumbs up. Napa is uniquely positioned to influence consumers and the industry on sustainability, she said, given the high profile visitors and tastemakers it attracts.
“Sustainability is increasingly important…[and it] can attract the interest of younger consumers, too,” she said. “It’s all very well with people as old as me saying it’s important, but then, you know, we know we’ll die before the planet goes up in smoke. But I think the younger you are, the more concerned you are…I don’t have to tell you how important it is that we open up the wine world to as many young people as possible.”
Dirt doesn’t lie
Soon greenwashing may be tempered, she said, with new measures pending in Europe. “I thought you might be interested that the EU recently has submitted a proposal to police claims of sustainability…rather than just letting companies go greenwashing to their heart’s delight, there’s a proposal to actually rap them over the knuckles if they’re promising something that’s not true.”
Robinson said wineries that farm well should educate consumers on what healthy soil looks like. She shared an example from New Zealand’s Quartz Reef where the winemaker presented her with a glass containing a sample of conventionally farmed soil and one from his organically farmed vineyard.
“I don’t know how many of you have actually shown consumers, demonstrating to them what the real difference is between a dead soil and an alive one. And honestly, it’s just such a dramatic contrast and it’s so simple,” she said.
Packaging matters
Known for her strong views on the unsustainability of heavyweight wine bottles — she includes bottle weight in many of her wine reviews and showed the audience her bottle scale — she told the crowd that glass bottles account for “a good 40%” of wine’s carbon emissions.
Her first visit to a glass bottle factory was a revelation, she said. “I was amazed by how hot those furnaces are, and you can’t turn them off. So they have to be kept at 2700°F 24/7, 365 days. And you can imagine how much energy that is using, quite apart from the energy used to transport something as relatively heavy as glass.
“It really is time that we break the connection between heavy glass and wine quality which we know is completely spurious.”
“The last time anyone did any formal research into consumer attitudes to packaging, it suggested that it was mainly neophytes, newly coming to wine, who were impressed by heavy bottles,” she added. “So that’s another thing to get across to the public.”
Lighter weight bottles have become far more attractive, she said. “What’s good today is that lighter bottles are no longer necessarily looking light. There was a time when the lighter bottles looked cheap, but I can tell you in my experience, bottle designs have gotten a lot better and I’m no longer able to guess from the look of a bottle whether it’s going to be light or heavy. And actually I’m getting pretty bad at guessing even lifting it up.”
Cost savings are another reason to switch to lighter bottles, too, she said, citing the example of Tablas Creek Vineyard (Paso Robles, Calif.) which reports that, over a period of 14 years, it saved $2.2 million by using lighter bottles.
The veteran wine critic said that, for her, using non-recyclable packing materials for shipping wine was a deal breaker. “I won’t taste it if it comes in styrofoam,” she said, “because that, of course, goes straight into a landfill.”
She praised cans, bag in box and new recyclable, flat, plastic wine bottles as better alternatives for the majority of wines.
The Napa Rise series continues this month with five more days of experts on additional topics in sustainability.
Pam Strayer
Pam Strayer is a wine journalist (who also writes for environmental publications) and serves as co-editor of Slow Wine Guide USA. Her work appears in Daily Seven Fifty, Beverage Media, Wine Business, Grape and Wine, Pix, Santé, Civil Eats, The New Lede and The Guardian.
Making the commitment to third party certification takes time and effort, but it is worth it to demonstrate our commitment to the community and to protect our watershed, our land and the air we breathe.
- Susan Boswell, Chateau Boswell Winery
Book your exquisite food & wine experience at @bcellars this August and support the wonderful work being done in climate smart winemaking!
#winery #winetasting #wineandfood #chef #napa #napavalley #climatesmart #sustainability #winereels #cheers
Thank you to all who came out to @complinewineshop for Vino & Vinyl featuring Napa Green winemakers!
We love getting out into the community and talking all things green!
📸: @tisharoundtown
Book your visit to @sterlingvineyards this August and receive 50% off your tasting while supporting Napa Green! 🍷🚠
#cheers #climatesmartagriculture #winery #napa #napavalley #visitnapavalley #winetrip #winwin
Join these rockstars of winemaking this week at @complinewineshop for Vino & Vinyl night featuring all Napa Green Certified Wineries!
🗓️: Thursday, July 18th
📍: Compline Wine Shop
⏰: 7:00pm
Get your tickets now at the link in our bio! 💃🍷
@tressabores, @ashesxdiamonds, @spottswoodewinery, @closduval, @larkmeadvineyards, @complinewineshop, @tisharoundtown
Plan your tasting at @phiferpavittwine in August! 🍷
“Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world. Indeed, it is the only thing that ever has.” - Margaret Mead
We are thrilled to officially kick off our ‘Cheers to Climate Smart Wines!’ campaign with the first press release going out and the announcement of the involvement of 21 of our Napa Green Certified members!
Join us in the month of August at a participating winery to celebrate the beautiful harmony & synergy between sustainability and luxury while supporting a great cause!
Full details at the link in our profile. Cheers to Climate Smart Wines!!
You’re invited..
Join us for a fun night featuring some awesome Napa Green wineries! Link in profile for tickets. 🎵🍷
📍: @complinewineshop
🗓️: Thursday 6/18/24 7:00-9:00pm
🎟️: Linked in profile
Plan your tasting at the beautiful new Garden Pavilion at Napa Green Champion winery @whitehalllane!
Help support Napa Green while sipping on delicious Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot amongst the scenic views. Cheers to Climate Smart Wines! 🍷
#napavalley #winereels #sustainability #winetasting #winetrip #visitnapavalley #cheers #vineyardviews #winelovers
Plan your trip to @cliffamily this August for our ‘Cheers to Climate Smart Wines’ campaign!
Clif Family Winery & Farm will be creating a beautiful food and wine tasting menu for the month of August with a percentage going straight to support Napa Green!
Plan your visit to the tasting room, food truck or gorgeous Enoteca Private Tasting Salon in August to enjoy great food & wine while helping to support this important initiative!
#napavalley #sustainability #napa #cheers #winereels #winetasting #visitnapavalley #winebusiness #wineindustry #winetrip
We’re thrilled to announce our ‘Cheers to Climate Smart Wines’ campaign starting in August!
Several of our champion members will be curating special offerings to support Napa Green and highlight the brilliant work being done in Climate Action here in Napa Valley.
Join us this August and visit @spottswoodewinery & @mkshepp!
Economics of Organics on June 25th at @grgichhills. Register at the link in our bio.
🎙️: @soilrainandhope
🎞️: @mvino1
Team Green outing today at the stunning @boeschenvineyards as we celebrate big things that we can’t wait to share with you! 🌿
One of the main resistances to phasing out glyphosate is increased labor and equipment costs. However, the costs of herbicides and fertilizers have risen dramatically, so increased labor demands can be offset by reduced supply chain purchases.
In addition, leaders like Grgich Hills Estate have shown that regenerative organic farming can be cost-effective. According to an analysis by Brotemarkle Davis & Co. LLP accounting firm, the average annual per acre cost of vineyard management in the Napa Valley is $14,800, with $3,800 in depreciation. At Grgich, they spend $11,000 per acre, with only $1,300 in depreciation due to the longer life of their vineyards.
Learn from regional leaders about the practical costs, benefits, and ROI of herbicide-free, organic, and regenerative vineyard management.
Confirmed Speakers:
• Ivo Jeramaz, Grgich Hills
• Phil Coturri, Enterprise Vineyard Management & Winery Sixteen 600
• Brad Kurtz, Gloria Ferrer
• Brenae Royal, St. Supery
• Rebekah Wineburg, Quintessa
Register at the link in our bio.
“Storytelling is key… and sustainability is the most important topic in wine.”
Thank you @elinmccoy for an incredible and insightful conversation with @napagreen members about the stories most likely to capture journalists attention.