“Sustainable,” is the new sexy when it comes to the wine industry, with “Certified Organic,” “B Corporation,” and “Biodynamic,” acting as designer labels for vintners’ creations.
Spottswoode's winemaker, Aron Weinkauf, and his dog Indigo.
Sam Jones, Register
The 46-acre Spottswoode estate is Demeter certified, meaning it practices biodynamic viticulture practices.
Sam Jones, Register
The Spottswoode vineyard has lots of bird boxes with grateful tenants.
Sam Jones, Register
Vineyard crews ride around the Spottswoode estate vineyard on a foggy fall day.
Sam Jones, Register
The Spottswoode estate has a house and pool overlooking the Demeter-and-organic-certified vineyard.
Sam Jones, Register
Spottswoode installed its solar array back in 2007.
Sam Jones, Register
“Sustainable,” is the new sexy when it comes to the wine industry, with “Certified Organic,” “B Corporation,” and “Biodynamic,” acting as designer labels for vintners’ creations.
For Spottswoode Estate Vineyard and Winery in St. Helena, this go-for-the-green mentality encouraged the company to invest a whole bunch of time, energy and money to pursue all of these certifications, including biodynamic “Demeter,” credentials.
“The goals of all of them are great, but there’s not a lot of overlap,” said Spottswoode’s winemaker and vineyard manager, Aron Weinkauf.
Spottswoode earned its organic certification in 1992, acting as an early adopter alongside one other vineyard in Napa Valley. Weinkauf’s predecessor and his crew then started farming biodynamically “loosely” in 2008, and after Weinkauf joined in 2015, the winery ultimately got its Demeter certification in 2020. The company is also certified with the local program Napa Green, and is currently pursuing a “TRUE” zero waste designation.
But as a lesser-known certification program compared to the others, the idea of biodynamic agriculture is not well understood.
In the case of Weinkauf and Spottswoode, he said that day-to-day operations did not differ much between organic and biodynamic farming.
“Within the Demeter certification, in order to be certified you have to have your organic certification already, so I kind of look at that as that does a whole lot of the footwork already,” said Weinkauf. “And then on top of that, it’s kind of just a mental shift … It doesn’t need to radically change what somebody who’s already farming organically does.”
The Demeter certification goes all the way back to 1924 Germany, and stems from the ideas of philosopher and researcher Rudolf Steiner. In an effort to paint farms as living, breathing ecosystems rather than factories, Steiner gave a series of lectures on biodynamic agriculture, and within five years, the first Demeter co-op had over 1,000 member farms.
But we are in 2021 California, not post-WW I Germany, and according to Weinkauf, Steiner never intended for his lectures to be taken as gospel.
“The roots of some of Steiner’s prescriptions are pretty out there on many levels, and they absolutely were one man’s suggestions on how to address the failing conventional farming practices of the time,” he said.
As a result, some of these ideologies have been compromised.
“What Steiner wanted was sustainability within a single farm and really nurturing that ecosystem in a single farm, which is not as practical nowadays,” said Weinkauf.
While Spottswoode has a well onsite and installed a solar array in 2007, a fully closed, self-sustaining ecosystem isn’t feasible.
Instead, Demeter-certified wineries and vineyards have other requirements to achieve a more modernized version of Steiner’s teachings. Hand-harvesting is preferred — even better if you follow the biodynamic farming calendar for harvest dates — grape pomace must be composted, imported yeast is forbidden, and acid and sugar levels must be left untouched, to name a few.
Here in California, there are 18 certified biodynamic wine businesses, three of which are in Napa Valley. Alongside Spottswoode, the Smith-Anderson Wine Group is certified, and importer Dalla Terra sources from the biodynamic winery Alois Lageder in Italy. However, due to its philosophical nature, the way that biodynamics actually comes to fruition in the vineyard is on a case-by-case basis, and the Demeter certification team assesses applications as such.
“Basically, biodynamics is nothing more than the use of experiences that farmers have made for thousands of years,” said Alois Lageder representatives. “As people of the 21st century, we have often forgotten how to intuitively grasp the interrelationships of nature. Whereas a farmer used to keep hens, pigs and cows on his farm and cultivate cereals, vegetables and perhaps wine, today this farm economy has given way to large monocultures.”
Spottswoode tends to agree with this logic.
“People ask me what biodynamics is, and I kind of look at it like modern science was very bottom-up oriented and they tried to tease out singular variables and try to analyze them in isolation, and because of that modern science struggles within larger ecosystems where there are almost infinite variables,” said Weinkauf.
“The cool thing for me about biodynamics is it’s to me much more top-down oriented, where it’s looking at big pictures, looking at whole systems and trying to make general prescriptions.”
Weinkauf says that he sees a disconnect in generational farming practices, and believes that the Demeter philosophy lends itself to some of these traditions. Rather than trying to curate a highly-specialized and unnatural environment for their vines, Spottswoode tries to study the estate and its needs without intervening too much.
“It’s still farming,” he said. “You still have to roll with the punches, you still get a ton of variability from Mother Nature, and you still struggle with the same bugs and mildew and floods — They don’t just disappear.”
Weinkauf deems himself a “firm believer” in all of these different sustainability certifications (hence the reason Spottswoode has acquired nearly all of them) but is, in particular, a fan of the revamped Napa Green project for its multi-faceted approach.
“The new Napa Green is really one of the more dynamic, holistic certifications that are out there,” he said.
“It’s always funny … You go to school to be a winemaker, we have zero business management practices, but at the same time, I definitely always knew this was part of it, [and] I think it’s good for people to speak up and try to be proactive, especially when we’re talking about ecosystem health.”
Making the commitment to third party certification takes time and effort, but it is worth it to demonstrate our commitment to the community and to protect our watershed, our land and the air we breathe.
- Susan Boswell, Chateau Boswell Winery
🌿 Did you know that less than 3% of philanthropic donations go to environmental work?
Please consider donating to Napa Green this giving season with one of several ways at any level!
Head to the link in our bio for details!
With gratitude and joy, we wish you a beautiful day & start to the holiday season from all of us at Team Green!
- Ben, Meghan, Anna, Marissa, Sierra & Megan
‘If not here, where? If not now, when?’
“The onus is on us as a world class wine growing region to be leaders in sustainability & climate action.”
- Executive Director of Napa Green, Anna Brittain
It’s been a big week at Napa Green and we want to take a moment to raise a glass to salute you all.
We are overjoyed to see so much support and invigorated interest in our mission towards sustainable practices and regenerative agriculture in the wine industry.
We have many more details, paired with educational & financial resources that are already up and rolling on our website. We will continue to share them all, one by one and in great detail here on socials as well.
For now please plan on joining us at our upcoming Town Hall meeting on Dec 7th at @stsupery. You can find more details at napagreen.org.
Cheers and Happy Friday Napa Valley. We are so proud to be a part of this amazing community!
⚠️ Important Announcement
Napa Green becomes the first sustainable wine growing certification to require the phaseout of Round Up.
Please find the link in our bio for the full press release and full suite of info & grower resources.
Join us on December 7th for our Napa Green Town Hall at @stsupery.
You’re invited to join us for a very special day at @dominusestatewinery on November 30th.
We’ll be briefly interviewing our speaker @nikki_silvestri right here on Instagram today at 2:00pm PST to hear more about what to expect at this event. See you then.
Curious to learn more? Join us at @dominusestatewinery on November 30th for a rare event and luncheon. Link in bio for details.
GREEN is the new black this season!!
Head to the link in our bio now and get your shirts, help a good cause and be an honorary part of Team Green this season! 💚
Let’s hear it for our Executive Director of Napa Green, the incomparable Anna Brittain for being named a 2023 Wine Industry Leader by @winebusinessmonthly!!
In their Sustainability Stewards section (which we love to see) we find Anna named in good company with inspired fellow leaders!
Head to our stories or the link in our bio for free access to the full November issue.
Cheers to the great work of our visionary Director Anna Brittain!!
Join us for the Soil & Shadow Implicit Bias Training on Thursday, November 30th at Dominus Estate with @nikki_silvestri.
‘Exploring what Regenerative Farming Systems can teach us about Regenerative Social Systems.’
This is a rarely-available, full-day leadership opportunity. For anyone who joined us for our 2022 & 2023 THRIVES/RISE Climate & Wine Symposiums and heard Nikki Silvestri speak our guess is that for you, like us, 60-minutes wasn’t enough.
Soil and Shadow works with C-Suite executives, leaders and teams to build the relational and professional development skills for high performance, diversity, equity and inclusion.
One of the elements that makes the Soil and Shadow expertise so relevant and valuable for Napa Green leaders is that their frameworks use living systems to model healthy social systems.
Napa Green will be covering half the cost of the tickets to this event. Register asap at the link in our bio.
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📸: Laine Kuehn
Congratulations to Napa Green Certified @boeschenvineyards on being featured in @pressdemo as a first to offer hazard pay and disaster insurance to seasonal agricultural workers! Read on for more and find the link in our bio to the full story..
“To Boeschen, committing to this small safety net in times of emergency isn’t just the right thing to do. It’s the way labor relations are headed in the wine business.
When vineyard crews showed up for this year’s harvest at Boeschen Vineyards, a small winery that operates largely out of a cave dug into a pretty hillside off Silverado Trail just north of St. Helena, they were asked to listen to a three-minute presentation.
Doug Boeschen, the business’ owner, informed these seasonal agricultural workers, among the most economically vulnerable in the North Bay, that the winery was now offering them a combination of hazard pay and disaster insurance.
Boeschen will provide an option to its workers — including the seasonal labor that pours into the region’s renowned vineyards for just a few days or weeks at a time. If the Air Quality Index climbs above 150, Boeschen’s workers will be able to choose between receiving time-and-a-half to remain on the job, or to take paid time off.
Boeschen will also pay its laborers if they are forced to leave a worksite under an evacuation order.”
This article also features other notable efforts on behalf of larger companies and regions working towards the same end. We highly recommend you read the full article!
Sierra is our Soil & Climate Specialist at Napa Green and her ask this year is that everyone consider donating to our small but mighty Team Green for Giving Season!
Here is more from @regenwithsierra:
“🎃 Happy Halloween Eve everyone! Today is my birthday, and I would be beyond thrilled if you would consider a donation to @napagreen to support a nonprofit focused on climate action in the wine industry 🍷🍾
@napagreen has the leading set of standards for sustainable practices, from soil to bottle. I am most proud of the work we do with winegrape growers to adopt regenerative agricultural practices in their vineyards.
Please consider supporting us in our mission! Click the link in bio for more! “
Thank you for having us @visitnapavalley! We had a great time talking to visitors about the many sustainability practices our Napa Green wineries and vineyards employ!
Stop into the Visit Napa Valley Visitor Center in Napa to learn more!