Happy (Organic Winegrowing) Mother’s Day: Enjoy This Conversation with Cathy Corison and Daughter Grace on The Wine Makers Podcast

You may think you know and love Cathy Corison, defender of the True Terroir Holy Grail of Napa Cabernet, beloved by thousands. During the reign of the Big Reds (that Robert Parker promoted) her wines were actually unfashionable, she says in this conversant. (Hard to believe these days). 
 
There’s probably a lot more you don’t know that is revealed in this wonderful episode of The Wine Makers podcast
 
Like many, Corison farmed organically but it wasn’t until her daughter Grace entered the business that there was bandwidth for them to fill out the paperwork. (Thank you to Grace.)
 
They also certified Napa Green in the vineyard and the winery. 
 
I had not known until I heard this podcast, that Corison uses no outside workers in the vines (except at harvest)–much closer to the vigneron model, a super rarity in Napa. 
 
They and vineyard workers also bike around Napa!
 
Here are a few little moments from the transcript, but don’t stop here. Check out the full podcast.
 
Cathy: 
“…when I got here, there were 30 wineries in June of 1975, 12 of which had been founded three years prior. 
“Napa Valley was very poor. It the first half of the 20th century was very difficult for wine anywhere. In the US, it was even worse because of Prohibition, but there were still two world wars and a depression.” 
“Was there still mixed agriculture in the mid-70s?
 
Way more than there is now. There were prune trees everywhere. There was a prune dryer in St. Alina that was, it may have not been active anymore, but it was still there.”
 
How did she come to embrace organic?
“My first big interaction with organic farming was with Ted Hall. I made his wine at Long Meadow Ranch for 10 years, and he was a really early adopter of certified organics. And so by the time we had our property, I knew, especially in our climate, there’s no excuse not to be farming organically.
So it wasn’t even a second thought when we, it was 1995 that we closed on the Cronos property, and it’s been organic every second.”
Making 3,000 cases of wine a year…
“I think that we have stayed this small for so long and kept so focused because that has been what we can do and continue to do ourselves. If we were to get much bigger and experiment with a lot more things, I think we’d have to hire out more. And for us, that’s not worth it. 
We want to be the ones that can do everything ourselves. [Cathy] hasn’t missed a single harvest pick day in her entire career… That is so unusual for a winemaker to be there for every single thing.
Grace: 
“She [Cathy] built this label saying that a label has to stand for something. And ours stands for Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.”
Cathy: 
“We spent a lot of time out there managing the canopy to within an inch of its life…we’re growing way better grapes than we were even ten years ago, because we’ve just gotten better at that.”
“For the last seven years, we do all our own work. Pruning all the way through canopy management….Our crew is completely hybrid…everyone who works in the cellar are the same people who prune. So it’s really cool because people get a really holistic sense of what exactly they’re doing out in the vineyard and how that affects the wine itself.
 
“We have four full-time year-round. And then we have an additional five to six that start with us at pruning. And they’re with us till the end of harvest… it’s a very European model…
“When I was at Davis 47 years ago, there were an enology department and a viticulture department, separate departments in separate buildings. And that’s follows through to this very day. There’s still a little bit of the them versus us thing, which is really too bad. There’s only a fermentation in between one and the other.”
For more, check out the whole podcast.The Corisons will be keynote speakers at Napa Rise’s Rise Green event on Wednesday. More info is available here