The Demeter certification goes all the way back to 1924 Germany, and stems from the ideas of philosopher and researcher Rudolf Steiner. In an effort to paint farms as living, breathing ecosystems rather than factories, Steiner gave a series of lectures on biodynamic agriculture, and within five years, the first Demeter co-op had over 1,000 member farms.

But we are in 2021 California, not post-WW I Germany, and according to Weinkauf, Steiner never intended for his lectures to be taken as gospel.

“The roots of some of Steiner’s prescriptions are pretty out there on many levels, and they absolutely were one man’s suggestions on how to address the failing conventional farming practices of the time,” he said.

As a result, some of these ideologies have been compromised.

“What Steiner wanted was sustainability within a single farm and really nurturing that ecosystem in a single farm, which is not as practical nowadays,” said Weinkauf.

While Spottswoode has a well onsite and installed a solar array in 2007, a fully closed, self-sustaining ecosystem isn’t feasible.

Instead, Demeter-certified wineries and vineyards have other requirements to achieve a more modernized version of Steiner’s teachings. Hand-harvesting is preferred — even better if you follow the biodynamic farming calendar for harvest dates — grape pomace must be composted, imported yeast is forbidden, and acid and sugar levels must be left untouched, to name a few.

Here in California, there are 18 certified biodynamic wine businesses, three of which are in Napa Valley. Alongside Spottswoode, the Smith-Anderson Wine Group is certified, and importer Dalla Terra sources from the biodynamic winery Alois Lageder in Italy. However, due to its philosophical nature, the way that biodynamics actually comes to fruition in the vineyard is on a case-by-case basis, and the Demeter certification team assesses applications as such.